The Annual Memorial Riot

It’s been quite a week here in Concepción, as the university community has prepared for their Annual Memorial Riot. Each day, on our way to and from campus, we have walked by police vehicles - jeeps, paddy wagons, even a tank topped with two mounted water canons – all ready to pounce on rioting students and all parked around the edge of the campus.

Thursday, March 29^th, was the day of this expected riot and an expectant hush hung over the campus. Police were everywhere and students huddled in groups, whispering and watching. There were spray painted reminders all around campus and even at our local supermarket.

Apparently, during a protest rally on March 29^th, 1999, a university student in Santiago was killed. Ever since, university students here in Concepción remember the day by rampaging around campus and the town, smashing windows and roughing up people. So, on the 29^th, we braced ourselves for the RIOT.

Although everyone was in a state of expectancy, there was no notification from the university administration that a riot may occur. There was no information issued on what to do if there was a riot. No decisions were communicated in advance about whether classes would be canceled. In typical Chilean fashion, all information was passed on unofficially by word of mouth. Apparently, the system for notification is like the party game of “Telephone.” News is whispered from office to office and person to person. Our colleagues told us, “Well – when the students start throwing rocks and Molotov cocktails, run for it. OR stay put in the office with the door locked until the riot passes … and the riots have been known to last all night.”

With all the anticipation – the police presence and the whispering campaign – the day passed without incident. Apparently, around 7 PM, the water canons were finally fired on some students, but by then Nancy and I were safely home. I suspect it was just for practice. Police and students need to stay in training.

It was with a sense of relief that we headed out of town on Saturday morning to visit the world famous Termas de Chillán, where the rich and famous ski in July and August and soak in the natural hot springs. Chillián is where the US Olympic ski team trains during the summer months.

On our way out of town, we stopped by our Concepción coastline to admire the view.

A beautiful coastline …

… lined with surf fishermen ...

… and enjoyed by a family of squatters.

We climbed the promontory (behind us in this picture), which stands to the north of the mouth of the Bio Bió River. I have dubbed this Concepción’s Rock of Gibraltar.

Standing on this promontory, I am looking to the south, over the mouth of the Bio Bió River … Chile’s largest navigable river and the southern border of Concepción.

Here, Nancy looks north up the coast from the same promontory.

We decided that, while we had our rental car, we should do a little exploring around the Concepción area. As we headed out of town, we passed a common form of Chilean transportation – the family horse and buggy.

We checked out Lenga, a sleepy fishing village north of Concepción and a favorite lunch spot of our friends in Concepción.

We then tried to drive along the peninsula north of Concepción but found that it is owned and operated by the Chilean Navy and not open to tourists. I thought of my glider buddy, Fernando, who is a commander in the Chilean Navy. Perhaps he will be able to show me around the naval base some day.

We drove for an hour east of Concepcion to Chillan and were greeted by the tree-lined streets and the alpine views.

We visited Chillan’s central market, one of the best in Chile. It is a city block crammed with vegetables, clothes, fish, antiques, beef, souvenirs … and lots more! If you can’t find it in this central market, you don’t need it!

From Chillan, we drove an hour east into the Andes to the Termas de Chillan where we spent the weekend relaxing and exploring.

A view from the Andes to the Pacific Ocean … only 1 ½ hours away!

After a relaxing weekend in the Andes, we drove back to the coast on Sunday in time to watch the sunset once more …. this time from Tome, a town just north of Concepcion.

Thursday, January, 18 Chilean Fjords and Glaciers

Wow, what a day of sailing! Looking out our port-side stateroom window we lazily watched the Chilean fiords pass by, while the Andes cascaded into the sea.

We took a nap and were awakened by the deafening sound of silence – no engines running. What could be happening? We looked up to see a glacier. We dashed to the top deck to get a clearer view. Stunning!

They lowered a life boat (above) to take supplies to a glacier observation station (below).

Dinner at Le Bistro – the restaurant on board ship that served fantastic French food in a quiet, romantic setting. Rack of Lamb and Chocolate Soufflé! What a treat!

Friday 1/19

At 7:30 AM the captain announced over the loud speakers that we were coming up to a glacier. We went to the exercise room to walk and watch the approaching spectacle.

We spent the day bundled up, watching the Chilean fjords pass by.

We had spectacular scenery at every bend.

The sun got hot – so I improvised a sun hat from my napkin!

At last, we entered the Strait of Magellan. Nancy has always wanted to see this sight. No disappointment. It was a thrill!

Monday, Jan 15 – A Day at Sea

We started every day with exercise, while enjoying a great view from the front of Deck 10.

A day at sea – heading south through rough waters. We began our habit of ordering breakfast in bed from room service. Delicious and relaxing! We also began our daily exercise routine of walking on the treadmills – Deck 10, in the front of the ship, with a beautiful, though bobbing, view. We enjoyed watching the bow of the ship splash though the waves and we held on tight.

Figure 1 George checks his GPS - Yep, we really are in South America!

We went to the 9 AM lecture on South America. It was boring, so we left. We went to the 10 AM lecture on shore excursions – not boring! - and we signed up for two.

Dinner at the Pasta Cafe

We had lunch at the Seven Seas restaurant, took an afternoon nap, relaxed and read our books, had dinner at the Pasta Café (what a view!) and then slept through a night of choppy waters.

Every few hours, the captain posted our position on this huge map hanging in the foyer of Deck 7. Here are details from our day at sea while we sailed from Valparaiso, past Concepcion, and on to Puerto Montt.

Wednesday 1/17 Puerto Chacabuco

We sailed all night, but in protected waters, so no chop or swells. Very peaceful! We anchored in the harbor of Puerto Chacabuco and tendered (or took boats) ashore.

It was fun watching the crew lower three life boats to be used as the tenders. They then lowered the gangway, which we clammered down to reach the boats.

We were pleased that one of the tenders was Lifeboat #10, our lifeboat. Good to see it was serviceable!

We visited Parque Aiken del Sur – a Patagonian rain forest. It is a private, for profit, park owned and operated by Detroit Chile, formerly Detroit Motors.

We walked along El Salto Creek. Fifty percent of this forest was destroyed by a fire, lasting 20 years, that was started in the early 1900’s to clear the land for settlement. We saw the young and old Tineo, Pilpis and Notro trees and the ubiquitous Maqui trees.

It rains 3000 mm/ year (10 feet!) here.

We lunched at a quincho, a traditional Mapuchu (or native) roundhouse.

They served roasted lamb and Pisco Sours (the traditional – and ubiquitous – before-dinner drink).

We met two new friends from Scotland, Irene and Kathryn, and we were all taken aback at the huge portions of lamb served for lunch!

We were entertained by traditional muicians and dancers.

Irene got caught up in the festivities!

Back on the ship, we read our books and watched the scenery go by from the aft observation deck.